Bob replies...

Hi Evan,

Thanks for a detailed letter, which makes figuring out the real problem and a solution a lot easier. Let me first make some comments as to your present setup, then address the numbered items.

Your goal is a reef tank, however, your equipment is more tuned to a fish-only system. A wet/dry or trickle filter is fine for a fish-only system because its effluent is high in nitrate. Most fish care less about nitrate level, but not so with many corals. Keeping the trickle filter going without its trickle media will resolve much of the existing nitrate. Over a period of three months remove the media in equal portions. One third one month, etc. Use the area for phosphate removing media and possibly place a couple of airstones in that trickle area to increase upward airflow and hence dissolved oxygen in the aquarium. I would also remove any nitrate reducing equipment/products as they are maintenance intensive and MUST be maintained properly or they can/will return other nitrogen laden compounds back to the aquarium which will benefit unwanted algae growth. As for a UV, perfectly acceptable for the fish-only but not so for the reef tank. Why kill the microorganisms that freely flow through the system that corals feed upon. This equipment is not needed unless you're experiencing marine ich problems with your fishes. You say bags of carbon, however, fail to say how many teaspoons or exactly how much is being used. You may want to read my Protein Skimming and Activated Carbon booklet available through Champion Lighting & Supply, (800) 673-7822, - That Fish Place, (800) 786-3829 - or Pet Warehouse, (800) 443-1160 (under $10.). Also, amazon.com and Barnes and Noble. There's a lot to know about carbon and it's all spelled out in that booklet. And, there are not any test strips that I would hang my hat on so to speak, nor are there any that I would trust enough to initiate changes to my system. They are good for occasional quick tests, but if they signal something skewed, I would then test with a much better test kit. As for such a test, alkalinity does not result in ppm, but in meq/l or a dKH reading. I think you mean calcium. Since these readings are with test strips I highly recommend using another brand/method, Seatest kits are excellent and low cost, and rereading those parameters before instituting any changes.

Now, lets address you numbered items,

1) I'm not pushing my booklets, but the whole calcium/buffer war sequence of events is fully explained in my Live Sand Secrets booklet, also available from the same sources as mentioned above. There's no doubt in my mind that you are probably your own worst enemy when it comes to controlling alkalinity and calcium. Incorrect application of buffers and calcium additives simply work against each other creating a frustrating situation. I should add that pH, calcium, and alkalinity are all tied to each other. As for magnesium, it's a small player, and needs to be tied to salinity levels before arbitrarily adding it.

2) The problem of hair algae and other unwanted forms has also been covered in a booklet called Marine Algae Control Secrets. I've fielded so many questions on this subject that I decided to dedicate an entire booklet to the subject because there are so many facets to the problem area. Yes, there are three booklets, and I think you would greatly benefit, as would your aquarium, if you read them. They are factual booklets and recommend no brand products.

3) Hammer corals do not like too much light nor water movement. They are somewhat equal in those likes to mushroom corals. Seems like you are taking care of that situation. Eight hours of intense light is sufficient, so try slowing cutting back. Retest your water parameters, read my booklets and then contact me with specific questions. I honestly believe you will be greatly enlightened and then we can address the real problems and resolve them.

As for being a fan of Marc Weiss products, I promote only the products that truly benefit the organisms in our aquariums. Since he was kind enough to divulge the inner workings of his products I can see why and how they perform. Because of that, and only that, I recommend them. There are some people who simply don't realize that his products actually create a balanced energy environment that benefits the bacterium we need in our systems to maintain a situation where the energy that goes into the system is totally used and not stored. The storing of that energy can be in the form of algae, which is using the excess for its growth/mass. His products are well thought out and if some cyanobacteria is initially generated when first used, that is a normal response because the cyano is simply the nitrification and mineralization bacteria using the excess energy in the system. If a system is experiencing excess cyano, the product to use to expedite the usage of the excess energy and in turn reduce the appearance of the red cyano, is Marc's Bacter-Vital product. After the cyano disappears any energy excess can be kept in check by using the Reef Vital DNA product. Believe me, this husbandry method works very well.

Hope this helps,

Bob